Thursday, February 24, 2011

The final surreal days

So this is it! The last night I have to spend in Bondi beach till next summer! Tomorrow is the last day of work for the next 8 months. For the next 8 months I will be on holiday surfing in Indonesia catching some of the best waves the world has to offer. I am going to finally completely submerge myself in the place for the longest stint yet! Today wasn't real. I still don't believe its actually going to happen. The feeling of just going to the airport and checking in...waiting to get on the place thats going to take me to Bali! Its completely intoxicating just thinking about! Everything seems exciting and I'm almost becoming nervous about it until I get actually arrive there. The excitement is almost uncontainable! It feels like a dream, and any moment I'm going to wake up and still have a month of work left! It has been a groundhog day that has lasted near 4 months now. Except for this evening I went for one last paddle at Tamarama and had the best session out there in the whole 4 months I was just here. I paddled out expecting nothing at all and good waves just seemed to come right to me. One real late airdrop on this 4 foot slab, just making the critical drop, and instantly inside a thick tube lasting only a split second...but a barrel nontheless where none was expected! Then 5 minutes later another, this one longer and much cleaner! Funny that my last session out there should be by far the best surf I've had in a long time, as if to spite me saying: hey, look what your leaving!! Or maybe just a small sample of what is to come in the near future awaiting me in Indonesian paradise! I just hope that I can keep my wits about me and NOT become jaded over there. I don't want to get spoiled again and have too high of expectations for a surf. I start telling myself its not worth going out there if I'm not going to get barreled or if I theres too many people. The shit I have been surfing in Sydney and with heavy crowds is something I need to ingrain into my permant memory for the next 8 months in Indonesia. My motivation needs to stay just as consistant as it is when I first arrive for the length of the trip! I have a feeling its going to be really hard to fall asleep tonight as thoughts of Indo race through my mind! One more day of work tomorrow followed by the drive to manly, and then some beverages of celebration!!

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