Saturday, January 15, 2011

Stress is not good

So this week was a bit different then the usual working program. It was looking like a week of skecthy rainy weather and with my registration due in 10 days on my van, I decided it was the perfect opportunity to make a road trip down south to sort out the registration and get some waves. I left monday afternoon and drove 3 hours down the coast to Ulladulla, a quiet and wave rich expanse of coastline. I arrived a few hours before sundown and when I saw clean 3-4 foot peaks at rennies with 4 guys out there, there was no hesitation in my paddle out. Upon catching my first wave, I turn around and see that the entire lineup had gone in leaving me out by myself! I surfed till dark catching some wedgy closeout right hand peaks that allowed for one big bash and a few real long tapered lefts. I went in thinkibng to myself how good it was to be out of Sydney for once, marveling on the fact that I was the ONLY person out for nearly the entire session. following this, I went to a friends' place to catch up for a few beers and reminice on the old days when i use to tour up and down the autralia coastline looking for sure on a full time basis, about 5 years ago now. Amazing how quickly the time goes, especially when your traveling the world and meeting new people and just winging it most of the time.
The next morning I got up for another surf at the beachie again and then took my van into the same mechanic I have been going to for years. He was looking over my car for a "safety check" which is required every year to re-register the car and this year he found a few more problems then I was willing to deal with. They told me my car was going to need $1000 worth of work to pass the saftey test to allow for registration! The problem is the van isnt worth much anymore, as I have had it for 5 years now and the work needed probably exceeded the total value of the van, not to mention the rust that has been taking ahold of the thing while I am away in Indo for the majority of the year. I began to really stress about what the hell to do. My van is crucially important to my operation here in Australia, in terms of both making money without paying for accomadation and having the freedom to cruise at my leisure up and down the coast surfing. One day turned into three, and I began to think my situation was pretty hopeless. I went a few other mechanic's and called friends to see if they knew of a dodgy mechanic that could just pass me off. I kept surfing the beachie everyday in boardies and offshore winds and made conscious attempts everyday to sort the van to no avail. On the final morning being the fourth day off work, I woke up early and decided to go to one last mechanic we had seen before but left because we wern't getting any attention. The guy came out from his job, looked over the van visually, kicked a few tires, and then told me to replace one tire and come back when I was done! I knew then and there it was all over! All the stress I was going through tearing me up inside was for nothing! That feeling, of being stressed out, biting your nails, constantly thinking about something and the options, its a terrible feeling. No one should have to go through it on a regular basis. Its just funny the things that get me stressed, because im not used to being under much stress at all. Things like where I am going to surf next or where to go during a certain time of year stress me out, making decisions about when and where to travel are enough stress in my life! After sorting out the check and paying for registration and insurance I booted it back up the coast to sydney and reentered my working domain. As i got back into Bondi I get a phone call from Tom our chinese chcf telling me they need me at work, so i race down to tamarama beach. After 3 hours of work and some food at the cafe, I went for a surf out front at tama and realized how lucky I am. I have a good job in an insane location on the beach, and I am saving money once again to go back to indo for a 8 month stint this time around. I had a chat with a friend who called me that evening after the surf who I've known for years and we talked about indo and travel and my sitaution and he just had me maughing my head off. I remember telling him about how I am working not going out, not spending money, living like a gypsy here in Sydney but what it affords me to do. I will save enough cash for 8 months in indo with a very generous budget, and STILL PUT AWAY ten grand in savings this year even though I am on holiday for 8 months of the year! I am the only person I know who is doing this. Not only am I spending a stupid amount of time surfin in indo, I am still saving cash and I bought a big chunk of land in sumbawa this year! I love what I am doinf and accomplishing in this lifestyle. I cant believe so many people are just plugging away at their 9-5 jobs back home, talking and dreaming about doing what I am doing! Anyone can do what I am doing, but NO ONE is! I am the only one who is actually DOING what I want?! Its seems like a really crazy thing and real out there, and taking alot of chance, but in reality its not at all. It just takes determination and free will, and I have alot of both of those! The whole thing is mind blowing really. I wouldnt have it any other way! I cant wait to have that overwhelming feeling of freedom rush over me when I am on the plane to bali this year for 240 days of perfect surf! Its gonna be well earned and insanely euphoric!

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