Wednesday, January 19, 2011

Cyclone Zeila and perceptions


So another non-working day in Sydney due to "rainy" weather conditions and REALLY fun surf as a result of having nothing to do. This is the second day in a row that I have opened the cafe at Tama to find out that we will only be closing right back up. Having nothing better to do and also finally having 2-3 foot surf out front it was a no brainer today what I would do with the afternoon. After walking over and checking out Bronte, I found a 2-3 foot wedgy peak and only a handfull of people out! I ran back to get my gear and went out for a session. Turned out that I would have the most fun out there then antime I can remeber surfing this stretch of coast. Its funny because if I didnt have off work, and have nowhere to go, I probably wouldn't have gone out. It didnt look that great, and let's face it, its Sydney beachbreak which can be stupidly corwded and barely rideable. The session ended up basically being just me down the beach a bit on this little rip bank that was sucking up and actually bowling down the beach into these oncoming sections. It was surprisingly rippable and really fun for a rainy and otherwise "ordinary" day in Sydney. I surfed for just over 3 hours and caught so many waves that I went in feeling tired, hungry and satisfied which is a bit of a rareity around these parts. Granted it was no superbank or south coast reef (which were both absolutely pumping the past few days for the NE cyclone swell that just hit) but it was really fun. I have been feeling really good and healthy lately as I have been off the beers, working alot, and surfing for the past 7 or 8 days in a row. It feels like I am going to just lose my mind when I get back to Indo and actually surf "real" waves that are always bowling and barreling. The waves I have been surfing the past few days have actually had some power and have been lined up and full of opportunity which is such a rare thing around here that I sort of forget what it felt like to surf a half decent wave, let alone GOOD waves! Its crazy how you can "forget" what its like to surf good waves but when ya get back into real waves it just blows your mind all over again, you have yet another epiffany. The past few days have respawned that feeling and have me really excited about the prospects of this year in Indonesia with good equipment ( a new board) and really good waves as can always be expected! Just if I can keep that initial level of stoke when surfign good waves for thsi first time in awhile during the whole duration of my 8 months there in paradise this year! I am going to try and make a commitment to myself to surf my brains out, everyday, for the whole 8 months and not get jaded on "mediocore" 2 foot surf with 5 guys on it: cause lets face it, I could just as easily be back home, or working 8 hours a day stuck in "miserable" Sydney like I am now. Just something to think about and remember when I am complaining about paradise or claiming I need a "vacation" from my vacation!

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