Addicted to Liquid

So I think I might actually be addicted to liquid, and I don't mean the kind you drink. There's something completely euphoric I feel when I am in the ocean, and that doesn't mean there needs to be a surfboard in the equation. Dont get me wrong here, I love surfing and obviously its my passion, as is exploration of new places and cultures and waves. What I am talking about here is simply the submersion of the body into water, and particularly the ocean. In clear, warm, salty water, you can swim around below the surface and open your eyes to a whole 'nother world of peaceful bliss. Down below there are no voices, noises, sounds of cars, etc, just the calming sound of the ocean. It is something that can truly bring tranquilityto the soul in the chaotic world of today. The fluidity and consistancy of water is something that brings inner peace and something that I need to get by day to day. It is becoming more and more apparent what the purpose of my life is, it all seems to make sense in a way that doesnt make sense. I know what I need to do, and I am doing it, yet I don't really know what it means. I am doing exactly what it is I want to do in my life at this very moment yet I dont know when the end is. I am building and arranging my future out as I learn more and more what it is that I want in this thing we call life. I'd rather have the experience of doing it rather than looking back wishing I had tried to do it. You can accomplish almost anything that you set your mind to, and its just a matter of setting your mind to the the right things. Its all mental. I am doing what it is that makes me happy and believe it or not it, it is getting me to exactly where I want to be in the grand scheme of things! The last I looked, isn't that what all of us are trying to do? Finding peace and happiness are the things most people struggle to find their entire lives, yet I already realise what makes me happy and have found a path of least pain to get me to that point! Though I am frustrated by not being in Indonesia right now, I know that I will be there in just under a month, and the means to get me there are what makes that place so amazing. Its all a means to an end. If you always just got what you wanted without having a course and mission to get there, then it wouldnt mean anything. If life was handed to you on a silver platter then it wouldnt be enough for you. Life is about conquest and accomplishments, it just depends on what your particular goals and ambitions are. GO ahead and try and understand it as you will, but I will not claim to know the purpose of life but I can tell you for sure that sitting behind a desk for some big company for 25 years isn't my purpose in this life. I suppose its the easy way out to sign on to that 'real job' as we are all expected to, but theres way too much out there to experience. Life experiences. And not the working type. Anyone can get good or skilled at almost any job after time, and you dont need a degree to do that. The standards of society have little to do with what most individuals actually value. Or at least me. My values seem to be dramatically different to values of the typical westerner. My job is a bit different, but I am doing what makes me happy and you know what, I'm pretty good at it. I seem to have become alienated by materialsim and consumerism that seems to have swept over the rest of the world since I have been disconnected with it. Technology and what people now 'need' is just getting crazy. These phones that are internet connected and GPD located and 'handy' to the point that you have to have one trips me out. Now you can be tracked and plugged in wherever you go, its so convenient. I'm saying its too convenient, and I dont mean to sound like an old guy here. Pull your head out of your ass modern day society! It's getting way to techy and people dont even realize it, but unfortunately its that way of the future, and so it consumerism materialism. You can't not have one of those phones if you live in a developed country, and its nearly at that standard even in countries where people can barely afford to make end meet and feed their families. Think about that, its F---ing retarted.

Routine

So I awoke today surprisingly early to find that it was finally a sunny, clear morning in Bondi. Remembering that the surf was on the increase and inspired by the already warm tempetures, I headed down to the early early before work to have a surf. On the walk down the street in my early morning foggy haze of consciousness, I had a few thoughts about routine. It can be such a good thing, yet such a bad thing, something that can both be loved and hated. Obviously its all in your mindstate, but routine can be a very a monotonous thing if its work we are talking about. The question is, how comfortable should you be with the particular routine and being on auto-pilot in your life. Some routines are good, like eating healthy or working out, but how far is too far? The past few days I have been in a mini-routine of surfing within the normal routine of work. This is something that is unique about surfing is how unique of a sport it is. Every session, let alone every wave and every day is so very different then the one before. That is a major component of surfing that I love and allows me to never get tired of it, chasing that feeling. The surfing routine just allows you to be regullarly immersing yourself in something that is always changing. The ocean is always moving and conditions are constantly changing, thus your ability to judge and react with these changes measures your ability to be with one with the ocean. From this I find true tranquility. On the other hand, you can be in a routine of work as I am in now and this is such a different extreme of the word. The work is the same everyday, and the nearly the same challenges arise over the course of any given day, yet your ability to anticipate and prepare for these challenges make your day run smoothly and less painful. It can get to a point where you just go throught the motions of work and never really truely be there mentally. Almost as if you have checked out and gone onto the auto pilot setting. It can be a scary thing to be in a routine like this, as days and month seem to fly by, and before you know it your entire life a sort of autopilot, where your just going through the motions but not really evcr there. This is the sort of stagnation that seems to me to be equivalent to imprisonment of some sort. Sure you have a good time on the weekends with friends reminescing about the old days when you didnt care, having a few beers with friends. But in reality this isnt really living life with true freedom. In another sense though, routine can get you through what would otherwise be a hard situation to get through. At the moment my work routine is a good thing as it is allowing me to pass by time that would otherwise be unbearable. Working 60-70 hours a week, day in and day out can be pretty trying, but my routine has allowed me to shut down and grind it out until I leave for my next trip. I'll be happy when my routine is surfing 3 times a day and deciding which island and destination to go to next! Dont let your life become one massive routine excersize!

Cyclone Zeila and perceptions

So another non-working day in Sydney due to "rainy" weather conditions and REALLY fun surf as a result of having nothing to do. This is the second day in a row that I have opened the cafe at Tama to find out that we will only be closing right back up. Having nothing better to do and also finally having 2-3 foot surf out front it was a no brainer today what I would do with the afternoon. After walking over and checking out Bronte, I found a 2-3 foot wedgy peak and only a handfull of people out! I ran back to get my gear and went out for a session. Turned out that I would have the most fun out there then antime I can remeber surfing this stretch of coast. Its funny because if I didnt have off work, and have nowhere to go, I probably wouldn't have gone out. It didnt look that great, and let's face it, its Sydney beachbreak which can be stupidly corwded and barely rideable. The session ended up basically being just me down the beach a bit on this little rip bank that was sucking up and actually bowling down the beach into these oncoming sections. It was surprisingly rippable and really fun for a rainy and otherwise "ordinary" day in Sydney. I surfed for just over 3 hours and caught so many waves that I went in feeling tired, hungry and satisfied which is a bit of a rareity around these parts. Granted it was no superbank or south coast reef (which were both absolutely pumping the past few days for the NE cyclone swell that just hit) but it was really fun. I have been feeling really good and healthy lately as I have been off the beers, working alot, and surfing for the past 7 or 8 days in a row. It feels like I am going to just lose my mind when I get back to Indo and actually surf "real" waves that are always bowling and barreling. The waves I have been surfing the past few days have actually had some power and have been lined up and full of opportunity which is such a rare thing around here that I sort of forget what it felt like to surf a half decent wave, let alone GOOD waves! Its crazy how you can "forget" what its like to surf good waves but when ya get back into real waves it just blows your mind all over again, you have yet another epiffany. The past few days have respawned that feeling and have me really excited about the prospects of this year in Indonesia with good equipment ( a new board) and really good waves as can always be expected! Just if I can keep that initial level of stoke when surfign good waves for thsi first time in awhile during the whole duration of my 8 months there in paradise this year! I am going to try and make a commitment to myself to surf my brains out, everyday, for the whole 8 months and not get jaded on "mediocore" 2 foot surf with 5 guys on it: cause lets face it, I could just as easily be back home, or working 8 hours a day stuck in "miserable" Sydney like I am now. Just something to think about and remember when I am complaining about paradise or claiming I need a "vacation" from my vacation!

Stress is not good

So this week was a bit different then the usual working program. It was looking like a week of skecthy rainy weather and with my registration due in 10 days on my van, I decided it was the perfect opportunity to make a road trip down south to sort out the registration and get some waves. I left monday afternoon and drove 3 hours down the coast to Ulladulla, a quiet and wave rich expanse of coastline. I arrived a few hours before sundown and when I saw clean 3-4 foot peaks at rennies with 4 guys out there, there was no hesitation in my paddle out. Upon catching my first wave, I turn around and see that the entire lineup had gone in leaving me out by myself! I surfed till dark catching some wedgy closeout right hand peaks that allowed for one big bash and a few real long tapered lefts. I went in thinkibng to myself how good it was to be out of Sydney for once, marveling on the fact that I was the ONLY person out for nearly the entire session. following this, I went to a friends' place to catch up for a few beers and reminice on the old days when i use to tour up and down the autralia coastline looking for sure on a full time basis, about 5 years ago now. Amazing how quickly the time goes, especially when your traveling the world and meeting new people and just winging it most of the time.
The next morning I got up for another surf at the beachie again and then took my van into the same mechanic I have been going to for years. He was looking over my car for a "safety check" which is required every year to re-register the car and this year he found a few more problems then I was willing to deal with. They told me my car was going to need $1000 worth of work to pass the saftey test to allow for registration! The problem is the van isnt worth much anymore, as I have had it for 5 years now and the work needed probably exceeded the total value of the van, not to mention the rust that has been taking ahold of the thing while I am away in Indo for the majority of the year. I began to really stress about what the hell to do. My van is crucially important to my operation here in Australia, in terms of both making money without paying for accomadation and having the freedom to cruise at my leisure up and down the coast surfing. One day turned into three, and I began to think my situation was pretty hopeless. I went a few other mechanic's and called friends to see if they knew of a dodgy mechanic that could just pass me off. I kept surfing the beachie everyday in boardies and offshore winds and made conscious attempts everyday to sort the van to no avail. On the final morning being the fourth day off work, I woke up early and decided to go to one last mechanic we had seen before but left because we wern't getting any attention. The guy came out from his job, looked over the van visually, kicked a few tires, and then told me to replace one tire and come back when I was done! I knew then and there it was all over! All the stress I was going through tearing me up inside was for nothing! That feeling, of being stressed out, biting your nails, constantly thinking about something and the options, its a terrible feeling. No one should have to go through it on a regular basis. Its just funny the things that get me stressed, because im not used to being under much stress at all. Things like where I am going to surf next or where to go during a certain time of year stress me out, making decisions about when and where to travel are enough stress in my life! After sorting out the check and paying for registration and insurance I booted it back up the coast to sydney and reentered my working domain. As i got back into Bondi I get a phone call from Tom our chinese chcf telling me they need me at work, so i race down to tamarama beach. After 3 hours of work and some food at the cafe, I went for a surf out front at tama and realized how lucky I am. I have a good job in an insane location on the beach, and I am saving money once again to go back to indo for a 8 month stint this time around. I had a chat with a friend who called me that evening after the surf who I've known for years and we talked about indo and travel and my sitaution and he just had me maughing my head off. I remember telling him about how I am working not going out, not spending money, living like a gypsy here in Sydney but what it affords me to do. I will save enough cash for 8 months in indo with a very generous budget, and STILL PUT AWAY ten grand in savings this year even though I am on holiday for 8 months of the year! I am the only person I know who is doing this. Not only am I spending a stupid amount of time surfin in indo, I am still saving cash and I bought a big chunk of land in sumbawa this year! I love what I am doinf and accomplishing in this lifestyle. I cant believe so many people are just plugging away at their 9-5 jobs back home, talking and dreaming about doing what I am doing! Anyone can do what I am doing, but NO ONE is! I am the only one who is actually DOING what I want?! Its seems like a really crazy thing and real out there, and taking alot of chance, but in reality its not at all. It just takes determination and free will, and I have alot of both of those! The whole thing is mind blowing really. I wouldnt have it any other way! I cant wait to have that overwhelming feeling of freedom rush over me when I am on the plane to bali this year for 240 days of perfect surf! Its gonna be well earned and insanely euphoric!

Waiting to live life aka "work"

This is just a little rant about work. Yet another day at Tama cafe in Bondi, south Sydney. Another 10 hour shift on yet another beautiful sunny day watching everyone else enjoying themselves at the beach. Work has got to be done, dont get me wrong here, my job is pretty epic. I work on a very busy pocket beach in Sydney with girls in bikinis running around the place ordering food from me. The money is good, the job is pretty consistant, and the location being on the beach is great, and the "scenery" is insane. But it still boils down to waiting to live life on another day. Everyday I work this job so that I can live a good life on another day. True most people work hard and spend hard, and thus dont really ever get anywhere. Most of the people I have encountered literally spend everything they earn almost instantaneously and must come to work the next day because the money they made the day before is gone. For me this is not the case. I work hard and save my money, all of it, so that I can spend it another day, in Indonesia. But this is the basic principle that most people have when they enter the working force, that is, save money so they can retire. I guess the thing thats tripping me out is that people actually work their whole lives to save money so they can one day retire, and do all those things they once dreamed of, but who really does that? It seems that people forget along the way what they were working for, and lose sight of their goal, to retire and be "free" from the capitalistic world and be happy. How many people actually achieve this? Either you get lost along the way and forget about your dreams, or you begin to spend more money as you earn more, which is VERY common from people I have met. Once you get used to making a certain amount of money, you find ways to start spending that much more money so that you never really get ahead in the game. You buy a better car, move into a nicer house, wear more expensive clothes, and so on. What used to be a lot of money to you is no longer "that much" money and the bar gets raised once more. Where does it end? Its absolutely mind blowing how quickly people fall into the trap, the capitalistic/consumeristic trap. The other thing that doesnt make any sense to me is how are you meant to enjoy your hard earned money when your 60 or 70 years old? Let's say you finally do retire, and you still have the same dream, or same goal (which would be quite an amazing feat in today's world) your too old to actually travel and enjoy yourself!! This is quite simpkly why I am living my life the way I do now. While I am YOUNG i want to travel, meet people from around the world, and surf the best waves in the world, as this is definately something that cannot be done at the age of 60. Though I am ranting a bit here, this all comes from my frustration in working seasonal work, 3-4 months straight, everyday, 10 hours a day, take a swim, have a shower, eat dinner, and go to bed. I have no social life when I am working. I don't go out at night, go to movies, go out to dinner, nothing. I just wake up, go to work, shower, eat, sleep by 9PM and work again the next day. But its an end to means, and it fulfills my goal to make money fast and get me to where I want to be. It allows me to be where I am happy and can do all of things I want to do before I get old, and surf the best waves in the world. Until this becomes too extreme or I feel like I have seen enough, maybe then I'll consider joing the "real" world back home. At this point, now 2011 and the start of the 5th year of my travels away from home, I'm not sure if I could even cope with living back in "normal society" but the way things are going at thwe moment, it doesnt look like I'll have to as things are going along better then I could have planned, all of this without a plan until recently! Just ask yourself, what do you really want out of life? Are you getting there doing what your doing right now? What would you do if money wasnt an issue? Alot of people work for so long and so much they wouldnt know what the hell to do with their life if they didnt have work. Guess we're all different and have different values. Not many people can do what I do, to achieve what I do. Its not all fun and games for me, but I set my mind to a goal and make it happen at all costs. Can you?

Trials & Tribulations

Contrary to popular belief, It's not all fun and games all the time in the Life of "baldo." I have to work seasonally to support my lifestyle of travel and exploration of waves in Indonesia. A lot has changed since my last blog, and let this serve to update the long gap and also to act as revival to what I wanted to be a regular posting. Since I last left you, I spent several more month in Indonesia and returned to Australia at the end of the season in November and worked at small cafe on the beach in Sydney. All was going well till I got a phone call from a friend in Northern New South Wales who offered me a job working on a prawn trawler. Upon this news I dropped everything and went to Indonesia for a quick 6 week holiday from the cafe job to get prepared for the craziest work of my life. I flew back to Sydney on March 13th and directly to Cairns to take a safety course on commerical fishing boats and to begin preparations for the boat. It was a 85 foot prawn trawler and I was to be on board and at sea for 90 days of the hardest work a person could even begin to imagine. From the second the stepped foot on the boat to the second I stepped off was a living nightmare. Up a 4 AM and off to "sleep" at 1-2 AM depending on the night. And "sleep" wasnt really sleep when you consider the movement of the boat, the crashing of the anchor into the hull of the boat where my head was closely positioned. Usually sheer exhaustion prevented me from actually getting to sleep as the body needs to lay still for quite some time till it is ready to enter the realm of sleep, and by the this happened, it was already time to wake up and get back to work. Since I was the new guy, I had to do all of the shit jobs and was the designated "freezer bitch." This meant that ever time prawn had to be packed in the snap freezer, it was my job to suit up and catch the 1/2 to 1 TON of prawn and load it one 5 kilo box at a time into the freezer. I could go on and on for hours about the gritty details of the job, and maybe at some stage I will, but for now, It can be said this job was insanely hard and tested my sanity at many stages of the 90 days at sea. One I got off the boat, I flew back to Bali the following day and found out that I could no longer surf. Three months out of the water using all sorts of new muscles on the boat surely didnt imporve my surfing. I felt as is I was re-learning to surf all over again. I went back to my spot out in sumbawa and after 2-3 weeks I got back into the groove and found I was able to still get barreled. Following this warm up session, I met up with a few friends and went to Sumatra to delve into the remote waves in the Mentawai island chain. We stayed on land for 4 weeks with no phone service, no internet, and basically no power minus a few hours right at dark to allow for dinner and a little R&R before bedtime. Again another test in sanity took place out there. The waves were unbelieveable, but the food was very bland and not very abundant. We were nearly starving for 3 weeks out of the 4 we were there, eating nothing but rice, eggs, and boiled veggies. But looking back on that sanity test, I would take it any day over the sanity test I had on the fishing boat. After the stint in Sumatra, I went back to Sumbawa to have one last stint before the end of the season and my friend Tony and I ended our trip out there. Tony left first and I left a few days after he did when I called my old boss from the cafe in Sydney and found out that I was needed. I flew from Bali back to Sydney 3 days later and got straight back into the work. I work at the cafe now, every day, about 10 hours a day. I just ended a grueling 10 hour shift now, on a 85 degree humid saturday. Though the work is hard and the boss is annoying, it is NOTHING compared to the work I undertook on the fishing boat, and this I have to remind myself periodocially. The funny thing is that the PAY is actually much better at the cafe! I work half the hours per day, and I am on LAND! I get to surf when there are waves (which isnt often) and I get to sleep at least 8 hours + per night. Its a no brainer. I will never work on the fishing boat again, but I must say it was a life long experience I will never forget, it definately builds character if you can withstand it. After the boat, ALL work, no matter what it is, seems trivial. It all just has to be put into perspective, as does most things in life. If you just put your head down and grit your teeth, you can get through almost anything. Its truely amazing what the human body is capabale of...IF the mind can cope. My current situation is very extreme but in a much different sort of way, as will be explained in further detail in my next blog...